By Margaret MacDonagh. 2017 MA Field Trip to Vicenza and Venice (Day 4: Wednesday 15 March).
The Venetian government recreated: Doge Mark flanked by The Council of Ten (only two members in this case), Mary and Margaret on the back row; in front of them, two sage advisors, the savi Aideen and Eva, with the arbiter of Justice, the Quarantia, represented by Carla in front and centre; Flanking her at the extreme left and right are Alison and Emily representing the senators. The two foremost students, Molly & Olga, represent the various governmental departments of the magistrati – photographed and arranged by Philip.
Day 5 started in the Piazza di San Marco with the group posing in a tableau as part of a living recreation of the structure of the Venetian governmental system, with each one of us assigned to a particular role/ state office. But with testosterone lacking in our MA class (with the exception of Doge Mark!), the 2017 version of this traditionally male gerontocracy had to be largely composed of a more youthful, female cast.
The day was dubbed ‘Super Wednesday’ for a very good reason. With the final four presentations to be delivered, copious cups of coffee to be drunk and many, many bridges to cross, it was a jam-packed day that would take no prisoners.
First up was Olga (above in pink) with her presentation on the external architecture of the Doge’s Palace, which she gave in multiple locations – challenging in itself, due to the extremely busy and noisy nature of the Piazza. As we moved inside the Doge’s Palace Aideen (below, in green) gave her presentation on the opulent and truly striking Sala Maggiore where portraits of the Doges stared down on the masses. There was so much to talk about I’m not sure how she chose the pieces on which to present. It must have been like picking a favourite child…
After a quick walk through the Palace and then lunch, back outside Molly treated us to her presentation on Sansovino’s Library & Loggetta, and just like Olga, Molly overcame the vibrancy of the Piazza to deliver another really informative presentation. I found it really interesting to see the Library which I had referenced in my presentation on Palladio’s Basilica in Vicenza (see Day 1) because Sansovino’s use of the Serliana motif here had been a direct influence on the Basilica during the following decade.
From there we moved on to the Museo Correr which provided me with my highlight of the day – the woodcut of the Bird’s-Eye View of Venice by Jacopo de’Barbari dating from 1500. To see the six low-lit panels of pear wood (below) displayed with the wall-mounted map directly behind it gave us a wonderful opportunity to pick out landmarks and locations in a city we were becoming somewhat familiar with already. The technical skill of measuring, drawing and woodcutting that was involved was, in a word, awesome.
As we walked to our final presentation we posed for a group photo in order to recreate Gentile Bellini’s Miracle at the Bridge of San Lorenzo which we saw at the Accademia the day before:
Eva (below) gave the final presentation of the day, and of the trip, on the Colleoni Monument outside SS Giovanni e Paolo. Not only did she give an informed and interesting account of the monument and its history, but she won the prize for presenting under the most challenging of conditions.
After overcoming the not-so-dulcet chords of a nearby accordion player, then children using the protective rail of the Colleoni Monument as a jungle gym just as she was highlighting pertinent features of it, she was finally faced with the noise of further children playing football beside us (who used an external ducal wall tomb as the crossbar of their goalposts). As she completed her task with absolute professionalism we all agreed that she was the heroine of the day.
And as we walked away from this final presentation and these Venetian kids on Super Wednesday I couldn’t help but think what a unique childhood they were having, where they could play and grow up surrounded by such history and beauty on a daily basis. Lucky them!
Posted 23 May 2017.
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